Late November. A brilliant, crisp morning. We boar...

Late November. A brilliant, crisp morning. We board the Rainbow Bridge Tour operated by Lake Powell Resorts & Marinas. Our tour boat slowly churns out of Wahweap Marina. Then, the roar. Open throttle as twin screws and 1200 horsepower Cats propel us over the shimmering waters of Lake Powell.

The winter sun hangs low in the sky, as it casts deep vertical shadows amidst the glowing red sandstone formations. A photographer's delight. So many gorgeous red rock views that it boggles the mind. Finally I just put my camera away.

That is a good thing. A slow procession of stunning geological masterpieces reveal themselves as our tour boat speeds across glimmering waters. We share pleasant conversation with dear friends. We struck up casual conversations with fascinating travelers, both domestic and international.

After several hours and 70-km into the cruise, canyon walls start to close upon us. Our tour boat captain touches off three powerful blasts from the air horns, throttles up, and shoots through a narrow serpentine slit of water that cleaves the towering red rock cliffs. He quickly slows, and then slowly emerges from this watery crevasse. There floats an extensive and completely deserted boat dock, which services the National Park's trailhead into Rainbow Bridge. It turns out that our tour has the whole place to ourselves.

We take our time walking up the gentle trail towards Rainbow Bridge. Canyon walls tower straight above us. Suddenly, as the trail wraps around the base of a cliff wall, the massive arch of Rainbow Bridge emerges in the near distance. Over eons, desert winds, a small stream, and cataclysmic flash floods have cut through the thin canon wall to form this 240-foot wide span. At nearly 300 feet tall, it is among the grandest of natural bridges. As we approach, we reminded ourselves not to walk beneath its towering arch. It is considered a sacred place by many native peoples. What a remarkable experience. What more can I say? Then it is back to the tour boat.

Being part of a small group, the captain has more time than usual. He adds a special treat. He gingerly maneuvers his 50-foot craft through a very narrow and very deep side canyon. The captain s mate says she had not been in this side canyon since 2001. In places, you could almost touch the canyon walls on either side of the boat, although that practice is emphatically discouraged. Of course, we finally must ease our way back out. A few years earlier, we could have navigated deeper into the canyon, but a large sandstone boulder, dislodged from high above, had wedged itself between the two canyon walls, blocking further progress.

There was yet one additional detour off of the usual route. We briefly stop at Dangling Rope Marina to deliver and pick up their mail. This remote facility is only accessible by boat. Except for a few barges, which feed the marina s hungry diesel fuel pumps, we are the only vessel at the docks. This remote facility fuels a vast flotilla of houseboats and leisure craft that cruise Lake Powell during more clement months.

This late November day is a bit chilly. But the sun is bright and warm. The waters are calm. The airstream on the top deck is invigorating. We are among the very few watercraft on the lake. It is almost like having the entire National Monument to ourselves.

Off-season is a fine time to experience Rainbow Bridge!