Jekon G

Review of Locanda Locatelli restaurant

Having watched Giorgio on the telly with Andrew Gr...

Having watched Giorgio on the telly with Andrew Graham-Dixon I was keen to try out the reputedly 'hearty', 'original' Italian dishes cooked to genuine Italian standards. I hate to say it, because the service was excellent and the wines, the sommelier's suggestion, were delicious. But the food was a huge let down. Proper Michelin style, perfectly presented and perfectly cooked food with all of the 'vulgar' flavour extracted. My rabbit's leg was tender and perfectly cooked but tasted of nothing except the pancetta in which it had been wrapped. My partner's 'charcoal grilled' steak also tasted of nothing much, as though it had been cooked sous vide and finished far too quickly in a pan. The pasta was good but nothing special. Having eaten in a couple of non-Michelin family restaurants in Rome two weeks ago this was a crushing disappointment. It is really Italian 'inspired' standard Michelin, completely unmemorable, anglicised food. Lucky old Andrew Graham-Dixon: he got to eat all the genuine stuff.