James Dohm

Review of La Pergola” *** Michelin , Rom...

With exception of the mushrooms, the main courses ...

With exception of the mushrooms, the main courses were to the point of "how did he make this?" -- especially the rabbit. Some of the flavor blends did not quite work without the wine pairings, so props to the sommelier, but I think the dish should be able stand alone with or without wine. I also doubt the Italian-ness of the food; Beck is German after all. The cuisine is mostly modern French.
Main desserts were nothing too memorable, the sphere thing is a bit of a gimmick to make a standard dessert "special" somehow (raspberry sphere with chocolate and tea? as common as it gets). Meanwhile, smaller desserts were generally great, like the fantastic pistachio macaron
Room could benefit from some AC. Service feels oddly rushed and distant. Overall, the highs are stong and frequent enough to warrant Michelin 3, but the lows are more obvious than they should be.