Chic Knave

Review of The Optimist

The Optimist.

The Optimist.

This will be my seventh time coming here and yet only my first review. Oh deary me . . . this review is long overdue. Ford Fry, please excuse my tardiness.

What IS there to say about this quaint seafood joint located on Howell Mill Rd? Well . . .
It's roomy. In a warehouse. Nautical themed. Has a miniature mini-golf putting course right outside. A lovely raw bar right before the dining area.

Right, onto the food then:

Me and fiance arrived a bit early for my table; so, stopped by the oyster bar.
It's a lovely wooden-countered bar with movable stools set apart from each other. Fresh oyster shells and assorted seafood plainly sitting for all to see on a bed of ice behind a pane of glass. No touching; at least, not you.

Behind the beautiful view, the chefs shuck oysters, prepare small dishes for the wood-fire heath oven, and laugh amongst themselves with jokes or some other such pleasantries to help the day go on faster.
There are tables scattered around the reception area if you don't feel like sitting shoulder to shoulder with other patrons at the stools.

So many oysters. So little time. Can't remember the ones I tried. Just know that I really liked the shells from Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island. Canada, love your food.
The N.S. wasn't as briny as the P.E.I. and had more clarity with its flavor but definitely not as creamy as the P.E.I. It all depends on what you're looking for with your oysters. But if you're one of those who eat it with crackers and copious amounts of sauce, I've nothing more to say. Clearly, oysters are not what you're wanting.

I also ordered the baked clams. It came out in a tiny cast-iron pan, on a bed of salt, adding a smidgen of flavor to the shells, with bits of bacon inside the shells.

The clam was good and the smokiness of the bacon complimented the slight lemon from the clam . . . however after two I found out that the bacon eventually overpowers everything. Also, the saltiness, combined with the salt bed, equates to an overly sodiumized dish. No matter. First was still good.

My fiance had the mussels, as she usually gets. It's always an excellent and "safe" choice to fall back on.
This time proved no different than the prior six. A plate of mussels in a beautiful simmering sauce with a small block of toasted texas; perfect for sopping up the rich soup.

We moved to the main courses within the inner-sanctum of the immense warehouse. The expansive open-plan kitchen is to the right. We were sat behind the towering wet-bar in the left-center of the restaurant.

I won't bother with details on the appetizers except for the charred Spanish octopus. As usual, the dish is executed to perfection; a nice subtle, blackened outside with charred edges but a juicy and succulent inside. They always have this dish but prepare it a slight different way each time.
But I sense a theme with each one: always tends to have some kind of heat to make it jump at your taste buds.

For the eventual main course, I had the duck fat poached swordfish. It was juicy on the inside, firm on the outside. No rotten taste of heavy ocean and certainly not flaky/falling apart. That's how you can tell if your swordfish is solid. Does it taste heavily of brine/ocean? Is it too soft; flaking?

RUN, ABORT! And never go back there.

There was a small piece of brisket next to it which melted in my mouth, naturally. Sweet and savory with just a tad hint of smoke and wood. Not overpowering.

My fiance helped herself to the fish&chips. It was the only disappointing dish. But not because it was dry. I guess we both thought The Optimist could do better with fried foods and turn it into something spectacular like the other dishes. Pity.

I loved the bathrooms here. They are located along a hallway; men's on the left opposite from women's. Separate little rooms for your utmost privacy. And all nautical themed too.

All in all, this is THE restaurant to go to if you need to try one from Ford Fry.

It's worth it. Trust me.

Always nearly perfect. 4 stars, in a heartbeat.

What're you waiting for? Go.

Now!