ed cetron

Review of Semolina Restaurant

The ambience started it all off. Simple, unpretent...

The ambience started it all off. Simple, unpretentious and homey. Then add an enthusiastic staff and I was happy even before the first dish arrived. And our waiter knew every dish inside and out as if he had prepared each one himself. Listening to him spend time at a table who where not foodies patiently explain the entire menu in great and passionate detail was outstanding.

And then the food. Layers of flavor over subtle textures and more layers. The Fennel appetizer with orange was an amazing blend of acidic and sweet. And the Burrata with a mushroom puree was stunning in both simplicity yet intense earthy essence.

We then had a intermezzo course of Saffron Linquine with PEI Mussels and Lobster Pasta with an Arriabata sauce. Both were delicious and balanced all the components exactly the way that nature intended. The spicy red sauce, usually presented Fra Diavolo style, was much much more. Spicy but in a way to complement the lobster not overwhelm it. And the exquisitely roasted garlic in the Saffron Linguine brought a subtle touch of heat the the otherwise sweet and savory pasta. And both were cooked to the special toothiness delight.

The entree of Chestnut Agnolotti with Fried Sage and Prosciutto was nothing short of amazing. The balance again excellent where every flavor swirled without any one taking over. My Pork Chop over a jam braised red cabbage and creamy celeriac was an exposition in hearty food with a dynamic back flavor of complexity. Juicy, thick and so tender I almost did not need a knife. Again, a spectacular course.

It was almost a shame to have to move on to dessert.. But wow.. It was difficult to decide if we liked the Caramel Budino with sea salt and cocao soil or the Egg Nog Panna Cotta with Fig jam better. Both disappeared in a blaze of competitive spoon action.

Bottom line. 5 stars. With the constant menu turnover, the farm to table freshness, this is a keeper...