Jay Keyes

Review of L'Espalier

It was in L'Espalier's dining room that I initiall...

It was in L'Espalier's dining room that I initially fell in love with my wife and, although the food was always great here and the service was impeccable, L'Espalier will be remembered by us as more than a mere restaurant. During my 20s, Chef McClelland's grand tastings were a true special occasion meal - one that I would budget for and look forward to for months.

That this historic 40-year-old restaurant sadly and suddenly closed on January 12th of this year has been difficult for me to process - it feels like a tragedy on the level of losing a close friend.



L'Espalier introduced me to so many "firsts" and influenced my dining vocabulary and sensibilities to the point that it became the quintessential French fine dining experience that I measure all others against. Even at the end, I was supremely delighted by McClelland's "Roasted Squab and Liver Vinaigrette," which bore strong nutty flavors of pine and acorn, yet did not feel out of place as a featured dish in a summer degustation. It was one of the best things I ate in 2018 as well as a dish that perfectly reflected the aesthetic sensibilities of L'Espalier's kitchen with its luxuriously decorative plating worthy of the exorbitant Back Bay rent-hikes that forced L'Espalier's closure.



The best thing I ever ate at L'Espalier? In late summer 2007, I was served a dish with lobster, Chatham squid, and pickled eggplant in a tomato broth that I can still remember every bite of.

Adieu, L'Espalier.