Justin Maher Review of La Marea
The pizza is angelic -- lighest crust I have ever...
The pizza is angelic -- lighest crust I have ever seen (both of us ate all the crust, without a second thought) (I speculate that the pizza-dough is made from imported "double-zero" superfine flour), -- and each pizza's cheese is thinly sliced bona fide buffala mozzerella (not the generic, shredded American "mozzerella").
This is also one of the few Italian restaurants where you hear Italian (not just Spanish) spoken from the kitchen.
Authenticity is not an unmixed blessing though.
This style of pizza was great as a Margherita, but I doubt that its angelicly-light slices would support many toppings or endure a drive home (were the pizzas to be ordered as take-out, rather than as dine-in).
The interior is rustic and spacious, evoking thoughts of an alpine lodge (so, why not dine-in?).
The entrees and appetizers were high quality (almost up there with the modestly-sized, angelic pizzas), but the portions are European-sized -- in line with the tales of Americans going to Paris, going to dinner, having an elegant dinner, and leaving hungry (and then going to McDonalds). So, if you want to stuff your face with supersized portions of relatively-high-quality, relatively-economical food, this place isn't going to become your new after-work bar or new go-to weekend-evening pizza-run option (stick with PizzaWorks, by the Old Saybrook train station, just 5km away for that).
But if you want a pizza that is of a type that is (easily inhalable and is) hard to find on this side of the Atlantic, and want that authentic pizza in an authentic (sometimes a little too authentic [a la the less diplomatic relative in your party yells out, ^hey, I ordered the entree, not the appetizer^]) environment, this is the place: where pizza intersects with fine, European, dining. But hey, America is full of the utilitarian type of pizza places. In juxtaposition to them, La Marea's presence significantly enhances the diversity of the Connecticut Shoreline pizza ecosystem.
The restaurant in general is worth a try. The pizza though, is a must-try, even if just so that you know what you're missing.
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