The empanadas don't look quite as you expect at Ci...
The empanadas don't look quite as you expect at Citrico. And that's because you've mostly come to know of South America's hand pies through the lens of Melbourne's (sorta) Argentinian and (kind of) Peruvian restaurants. Granted, they can be fried, baked, big, small.
But here, all three versions (a traditional number featuring a fine mince of beef, olives, raisins and egg; a milder package, plump with juicy pulled pork and a vego version chunkily stuffed with salty potato, leek and cheese) are particularly sizeable and square-ish. On the side is a chunky vinegary salsa of finely diced onions, chilli and tomatoes, which some will recognise as Chile's calling card, pebre.
Citrico is a little bit Chilean the vision of owners Nan Kroll and her Chilean partner Julio Forteza. But there's also ceviche done in the manner you've come to know is from Peru, and things grilled on a parrilla, Argentinean-style. This makes sense when you learn the chef is Daniel Salcedo, who was formerly at Harley House and Piqueos, and originally hails from Lima.
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