K M Review of The Fat Duck "Gastronomic Rest...
This is top cooking when it comes to technique and...
This is top cooking when it comes to technique and it is widely known that Heston has started or popularised many culinary trends. Here I refer to "The Fat Duck Volume 1" of their silver anniversary celebration menu. From this menu all of the dishes were perfectly executed, the famous "Sound of the sea" did invoke memories of sitting outside near the seashore, the snail porridge aka congee was really quite something and much better than the Chinese version that apparently was an inspiration of the dish. The crab ice cream on the other hand was just a mistake, not good at all and maybe just one step too far in trying to be creative.
Now the missing star: the composition, the order of the menu and how it makes one feel left a lot to be desired. After all, restaurants of this caliber are meant to impress but first and foremost FEED. Here it is forgotten and style rules over form. The first four or so dishes were on the sour and "palate cleansing" side and mostly cold. It took a lot of time for anything of substance to arrive. This particular menu consists of their famous dishes from the past so we felt a bit bored as it's all been said and done before, it could still be more coherent than it was despite their trip down the memory lane. A bit like going to the theatre and getting a rundown of how great the treatre is instead of watching a good play.
Nowadays the trend is amazing ingredients/simple techniques, Heston is exactly the opposite - any ingredients/elaborate techniques. Still worth going at least once to experience it.
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