Julien Ciarniello

Review of Central Restaurante

We meet at the entrance of the Central its chef Vi...

We meet at the entrance of the Central its chef Virgilio Martinez who welcomes us with a quick welcome and good evening. On the menu, 10 services declined on the basis of altitude.

Big fan of Spritz I choose the cocktail based on aperol, pisco italia. Magnificent, just between the acidity of the grapefruit and the bitterness of the aperitif. Perfect blend.

We start to awaken our taste buds by diving into the ocean. A moluscos de roca (-10m) presents itself to us, between a tartare and an espuma of different molluscs: caracoles , mejillones , sargazo (brown algae), lapa , limpets, sea shells .
In the dish a shade of gray reminiscent of the rocks sinking into the ocean, flavor, iodine and a lot of balance. They are aimed right from the start. First winning service.
On the table, barnacles and seaweed crisps are arranged as decoration.
We then go to Moray (3,500m) near Cuzco where chef Virgilio has just opened his second restaurant, the MIL , an experience based on high mountain products a few meters from the site where the Incas were experimenting themselves. centuries ago, agronomy by simulating different climates.

We descend (just a little, 100m) for the next service which includes Olluco, chincho, cebolla and yuyo de pampa.
Lolluco is a small yellow tuber that resembles a potato. The chincho is a cooked aromatic plant and often associated with others widely used in Peruvian cuisine such as culantro (coriander) and "huacatay" (between mint, tarragon and basil) that I have seen on many markets and many gardens.
The pampas yuyo is a yellow flower reminiscent of the dandelion.



We continue in the high jungle (1900m) with a test around the macambo, copoazu, two plants close to cocoa, "yuca" (cassava) and papa voladora which is a potato but which grows on a tree! All served as an assortment of starchy foods (bread, pancakes, etc.).

Then comes a Suelo de mar (0m) composed of perfect sea urchins decorated with pepino melon (sweet cucumber) and a lemon-based sauce, navajas (sea knives) and an alga called Yuyo .

Black corn, Kculli and morada (commonly called "chicha morada" which is served as a drink on all Peruvian markets, black or purple corn boiled with cinnamon and cloves. Chulpi and piscorunto, two other types of Andean corn. Both the crunchiness and the sauce are perfect.

the coral of mar (-10m) prepared with octopus, crab, squid and an emulsion of sea lettuce. I remember with nostalgia the octopus perfectly cooked and crunchy that we had served at our wedding in Traiguera.

Needless to say, if you have the chance to one day try the cuisine of this inventive young chef who knew better than anyone how to put Peruvian terroir first, go for it!