If it's New England clam chowder you're after, it ...

If it's New England clam chowder you're after, it doesn't matter how long the drive, Fish Company is the place to go. There is no place that does as good a job--no place. If I'm in the neighborhood, I'll pick up a couple quarts to-go, and we'll have it for dinner.

But for everything else, the fish tends to be a bit overdone, and the recipes uninspired. It's like traveling back in time to 1978. A couple weeks ago we visited, and this will be the last time. My sea bass was overcooked, and my wife's food was luke warm. The main dish and the sides were all cooler than water you'd use to wash your hands.

If you're choice is between here and one of those chain seafood restaurants, come here. But if you're expecting exquisite dining, forget about it. The reason I give them four stars is they're better than the chains, but not by much.

The dining area is also quite loud. They pack 'em in, so don't expect a quiet, sophisticated meal.