Here is what these guys did to me: I called them ...

Here is what these guys did to me: I called them two weeks in advance to ask if they would be comfortable taking me on the hardest ice climbs in the area. There was no pressure and I wanted them to be free to say no. I didn't need instruction or hand-holding; I'm a good ice climber with lots of experience and AMGA instructor training. I just wanted a trustworthy climbing partner to experience the area efficiently. They said no problem and even recommended Talisman as the target (it was in good shape). Perfect. Two weeks later, I am on site meeting with the guide they assigned for an initial briefing the afternoon before the climb. All seemed fine until that evening when he sends me an email saying he was canceling because he feared for his life! I know, right, WTF. He didn't even offer some alternative climbs. Well, long story short, apparently he had not climbed this route before, and had gotten scared. at the prospect. His comfort zone was clearly climbing in the park with beg/int climbers. Now I am not going to hold that against him, we've all been there, but I do blame SJMG owner Nate Dryer who did not assign a guide that WAS comfortable with the climb. They had two weeks notice and THEY suggested the route. I had made my plans based on this happening, and I might add that they added plenty of "adventure" fees for the harder climb, so it was not going to be cheap. Nate's response to the guide abandoning me was "I support my guides instincts". Again, WTF. This is about a company that has contracted to provide a particular service, and now in the 11th hour is saying literally "go away, we can do nothing for you". Moral to the story: don't count on these guys for bigger climbs. They are only good for beg/int clinics in the ice park.