ATMOSPHERE Calm and cerebral, with the focus squar...

ATMOSPHERE Calm and cerebral, with the focus squarely on the food.

SOUND LEVEL Pleasantly quiet.

RECOMMENDED DISHES Sushi and sashimi, flash-fried shrimp, grilled fish liver, flash-fried eel bones.

WINE LIST No wine; small selection of beer and sake.

PRICE RANGE Appetizers, $4.50 to $24; sushi, $3.50 to $8.50 apiece; omakase, $80 to $200; desserts, $4 to $6.

HOURS Monday to Friday, noon to 2:15 p.m., 6 to 10:15 p.m. Saturday, 6 to 10:15 p.m. Closed Sunday.

RESERVATIONS Essential, two weeks ahead.

CREDIT CARDS All major cards.

WHEELCHAIR ACCESS Entrance, dining room and restrooms are on one level.