"Born & Raised" has surpassed my expectations -- a...

"Born & Raised" has surpassed my expectations -- a tall task given the spendy menu. The service is spectacular and the dramatic interior decor is stunning -- based on a timeless design not of our era, but of this country's vintage nosheries, with an elegant ambience cultivated by a brassy, walnut-colored "art deco" dining room and punctuated by an attractive front-of-house staff tricked out in tasteful dresses and white tuxedos.

Best of all, the food here has been very good across two separate visits.

My first steak here was the classic "Tournedos Rossini": a butter-basted rare filet mignon served on a crouton, topped with seared foie gras, finished with a Madeira demi-glace sauce, and garnished with shaved black truffles. The whole of this is a buttery, well-crusted steak supported by strong complimentary flavors that will leave you wondering why every steakhouse doesn't serve this dish.

On my second visit, I enjoyed an 8-ounce "Miyazaki A5 New York Strip," a pre-sliced Japanese black wagyu steak that may be the best steak I've eaten in San Diego, with only Provisional's Hokkaido A5 challenging it. The melty, buttery texture of this steak combined with its relentlessly beefy flavor simulates one's tastebuds in a way that they are utterly ruined for the next dozen steaks you will eat. Unlike the multiple flavor bombs involved in the "Tournedos Rossini," a light sprinkle of Maldon sea salt flakes is all that is provided or needed for A5-grade wagyu steak. Unfortunately, it did not come cheap: at $18 per precious ounce, this steak set me back $144.

All of the a la carte sides I've had are decent, even by steakhouse standards. You can't go wrong with Born & Raised's "Coal-Roasted Leeks," or the crispy "Charred Broccoli," or especially the baked breadcrumb-covered "Mac & Cheese" with its tangy mix of cheddar and gruyere cheeses. But my favorite side was the half-pound "Butter-Poached Lobster," a pricey but worthwhile indulgence of melted butter riding on the back of expertly cooked, taut lobster tail meat.





While I still believe Cowboy Star to be the city's top steakhouse, "Born & Raised" is similarly one of San Diego's top restaurants in addition to being an intriguing place for steak. I look forward to coming back here for years to come.