Tyler Elkink

Review of Ristorante Pulcinella

To describe Pulcinella's work as merely "the best ...

To describe Pulcinella's work as merely "the best pizza I ever had in my life" is to damn with faint praise and an accidental association with the greasy bread products of fast food popularity. What Pulcinella fires and serves is a dough of brilliant texture and depth, toppings of breathtaking quality and flavour, and a crust that achieves precisely the combination of chewy, crunchy, and bubbly that ought to be what you think of when you hear "pizza."