Adriaan Wijgerde

Review of Château Neercanne

You enter the large central hall next to the resta...

You enter the large central hall next to the restaurant with its luxurious, classical decor, large crystal lusters, old antique oak floor, round tables covered with fine linen and a skirt, with comfortable armchairs covered in cobalt blue velvet with the castle's coat of arms on it.

We were escorted to a table by the window, great. A cava as an aperitif, the Brut van Portium which pleased me well. Next to it warm French chouquettes spiced with lovage and shavings of parmesan, tasty.

The appetizer was a table preparation. In a golden cocktail glass, cubes of puffed celeriac with mustard seeds topped with a bound broth of celeriac and finished with a grater from Fiore Sardo (a smoked sheep cheese from Sardinia), which created a pleasant aroma. Winter flavors with a leading role for celeriac.

Followed by an amuse duo. To start a mousse of macadamia in a citrus vinaigrette with slender stakes of granny smith and pieces of chicory, delicious.
On a golden spoon a chutney of beetroot on which a slice of Florence Maritime (Belgian goat brie) and cream of basil, covered with jelly of escabeche with a crunch of sourdough, very tasty.

The first companion was neatly presented, van Hoeve Nekum (the neighbors) a Riesling 2015, elegant with a round attack. A dish with cheerful colors from the kitchen. Thick slices of lightly pickled kingfish in a vinaigrette of sambai vinegar in which trout eggs, bordered with Shiro Miso (soy pasta). Add a quenelle of delicious king crab salad, balls of avocado and crispy seaweed. Fairly complex taste experience with refined flavors and fresh accents. (8)

From South Africa a nice thick "Unwooded" Chardonnay 2017 from Constantia Uitsig. The chef himself presented his gnocchi dish. Three brown roasted gnocchis with liquid filling of Mimolette, finished with shaved Mimolette and diced cream of celeriac with thick slices of winter truffle, in a frothy stock market prepared with truffle. Normally I am not a gnocchi lover but this savory version with nice truffle touch is the tastiest I have ever eaten. The chardonnay fitted in seamlessly. (8.25)

On to Italian red with a Primitivo Merlot from Feudi Di San Marzano, full of ripe black fruit and an elegant aftertaste. The pie, pieces of slightly crispy fried and softly stewed Black Angus short rib on which melting goose liver with potato grits on spinach beds, a central preparation of chicory with small sprouts and a mushroom in a sauce of smoked butter. The meat was for sucking, beautiful full flavors that were enhanced by the fresh tones of the wine. The highlight of the afternoon, enjoy! (8.75)

For dessert, a Welschriesling Auslese 2017 from Gerhard Haider with a beautiful vanilla touch and round acids in the mouth. On the plate a melange of citrus fruit from Humberto Martinez (grower from Valencia). In candied yuzu juice flesh of blood orange, orange and grapefruit with slices of kumquat and pearls of white chocolate, finished with a quenelle of pistachio ice cream at the table. Delicious acids with juicy textures, partner had ginger sorbet, which I personally thought fit better than the pistachio. The Welschriesling remained neat and upright. (8)

We were allowed to eat the valve in the vaults between the wine storage, fine. A powerful espresso with a delicious cake of dulce de leche caramel on a chocolate biscuit.

Service was excellent provided by a large team, correct with Limburg cosiness.

In summary, I can state that the experience was beyond expectations. Fine dishes in a classical style with modern influences and well-selected wines in a luxurious location. A real treat afternoon, until next time, thanks!